Seoul: A Guide for Those Going It Alone

1. Gyeongbokgung Palace

The main Joseon dynasty palace, built in 1395. 330 buildings on 45 hectares — the largest of Seoul's five palaces. Changing of the guard hourly from 10:00 to 15:00 (except Tuesday). Entry: 3,000 KRW ($2.30). Renting a hanbok (traditional dress) gives free entry. Address: 161 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu. Metro: Gyeongbokgung station, exit 5.

2. Bukchon Hanok Village

900 traditional hanok houses on a hill between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces. People still live here — it's not a stage set. Best photo spot: the intersection on Gahoe-ro 11-gil (Google Maps: Bukchon Hanok Village Viewpoint). Come before 9:00 — after that the tour buses arrive. Free. Nearby: cafes in hanoks, ceramics shops.

3. Myeongdong

Seoul's main shopping street — cosmetics, clothing, street food. Korean brands (Innisfree, Nature Republic, Etude House) are cheaper here than at Duty Free. Street food runs 11:00 to 23:00: tteokbokki (rice cakes in spicy sauce) — 3,000-4,000 KRW ($2.30-3), hotteok (pancake with honey and nuts) — 1,500 KRW ($1.15), grilled squid — 5,000 KRW ($3.80). Metro: Myeongdong, exits 5-6.

4. N Seoul Tower (Namsan Tower)

TV tower 480 m above sea level on Mount Namsan. Observation deck at 236 m: 21,000 KRW ($16). View of the whole city — mountains to the north, the Han to the south. Access: cable car 15,000 KRW ($11) or 30-minute walk through the park. Tradition: hanging name padlocks on the tower. Metro: Myeongdong, then walk or cable car.

5. Hongdae

Student district around Hongik University. Street performances any day of the week, clubs until morning, independent galleries, cat and dog cafes. Best evening district for a younger crowd. Nearby: Sinchon (even cheaper, Korean students) and Yonsei (another university). Metro: Hongik University, exit 9.

6. Gangnam

District south of the Han — Seoul's most expensive. Main street Apgujeong — flagship stores of Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton. Coex Mall — 400 shops underground, the giant Starfield library. Nearby is the 1988 Olympic Park. Metro: Gangnam, exit 10.

7. Gwangjang Market

Seoul's oldest covered market, founded in 1905. 5,000 stalls — silk, antiques, hanbok. But the heart is the food court in the center. Haemul pajeon (seafood pancake) — 10,000 KRW ($7.60), bindaetteok (buckwheat pancake with mince) — 5,000 KRW ($3.80), yukhoe (raw beef with pear) — 15,000 KRW ($11). Open 9:00-23:00, Sunday closed. Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu.

8. Insadong

Traditional arts district. Galleries, tea houses, shops with calligraphy and Buddhist culture items. The main street is pedestrian on weekends. Try pine-needle tea (솔잎차) at one of the tea houses. Ssamzigil shopping arcade — local crafts and design. Metro: Anguk, exit 6.

9. Itaewon

International quarter near the American Yongsan military base. The most diverse restaurants in the city — Turkish, Ethiopian, Mexican, halal. Following the 2022 tragedy it's restarting — concept cafes, bars, galleries are appearing. Nearby: Haebangchon with city views. Metro: Itaewon, exit 2.

10. Bukhansan National Park

Granite cliffs right above the city. 13 peaks; the highest is Baegundae (836 m). Hike to the summit: 4-5 hours round trip, moderate difficulty. Good hiking shoes required. Many trails for all fitness levels. Park entry free. Metro: Gupabal or Dobongsan.

Seoul is sharply seasonal. Spring and autumn are the best times; summer and winter are at opposite extremes, both requiring preparation.

April (optimal) — cherry blossom lasts 1-2 weeks (exact dates shift; check forecasts). Yeouido Park, the Han riverfront, and the avenue at Songpa-daero are the main spots. Temperature 10-18°C, occasional rain. Main downside: crowds of Korean tourists on weekends.

October (optimal) — maples in the parks burn red and orange. Temperature 10-20°C, sunny. Hiking in Bukhansan or Seoraksan (2 hours from Seoul) is at its best.

May-June — warm (20-26°C), few tourists after blossom season. Good choice if April prices are too high.

July-August — jangma (monsoon rains) in July, then humid heat up to 35°C. Myeongdong in the rain loses charm. But: Han River light festivals, lower accommodation prices.

September — heat eases, weather stabilizes. Good month for those who missed October.

November-February — winter is harsher than expected: -10°C with wind from the north. But few tourists, low prices, Pyeongchang ski resorts 2 hours from the city. Korean New Year — Seollal (lunar, January-February) — many sights close for 3 days.

Direct flights — Korean Air and Asiana Airlines connect Seoul Incheon (ICN) with most major hubs worldwide. Flight times: from European hubs 10-11 hours; from US west coast around 12 hours.

Incheon Airport (ICN) — one of the world's best airports, 60 km west of Seoul. Connections to the city:

AREX Express Train — direct express train to Seoul Station in 43 minutes, 9,500 KRW ($7.20). Operates 5:20 to 22:40. Most convenient option.

AREX All-Stop Train — slower (66 minutes) but cheaper: 4,150 KRW ($3.15), stops in Incheon and Geomamsan.

Limousine bus — drops you in city districts, 9,000-16,000 KRW ($6.80-12), takes 60-90 minutes depending on traffic.

Taxi — 65,000-80,000 KRW ($49-60), about an hour. Use only with heavy luggage or late at night.

Seoul is huge, and your district choice affects how much time you spend on the metro. Below is a district guide with April 2026 prices.

Myeongdong / Junggu — tourist center. Shopping, restaurants, palaces nearby. Guesthouses from 15,000 KRW ($11)/night, 3-star hotels from 60,000 KRW ($45). Main downside — noisy and commercial. Metro: Myeongdong.

Insadong / Jongno — historic center, quieter than Myeongdong. 10-minute walk to Gyeongbokgung. Guesthouses from 20,000 KRW ($15), hotels from 70,000 KRW ($53). Metro: Anguk or Jonggak.

Hongdae — youthful, lively at night. Good base if you want clubs and bars. Guesthouses from 18,000 KRW ($14). Metro: Hongik University.

Yongsan / Itaewon — international atmosphere, world cuisines. Airbnb apartments from 40,000 KRW ($30). Metro: Itaewon.

Gangnam — expensive and far from sights. Worth it for business or shopping. Hotels from 100,000 KRW ($76). Metro: Gangnam or Express Bus Terminal.

Seoul Metro — 9 lines, 300+ stations, covers the city and suburbs. Operates 5:30-24:00. Base fare 1,250 KRW ($0.95) up to 10 km, more beyond. Navigation: Naver Maps or the official Seoul Metro app — they show which car to board and where to exit.

T-money card — transit card like London's Oyster. Buy from any station machine or at CU/GS25/7-Eleven: 4,000 KRW ($3). Top up with cash. Transfer from metro to bus within 30 minutes gets a discount. Works in taxis, some shops, and on Seoul Bike rentals.

Buses — extensive network, harder than the metro but cheaper: 1,200 KRW ($0.90). Route number colors: blue — main lines, green — district, red — express suburban.

Taxis — cheaper than in Europe: pickup 4,800 KRW ($3.60), 1 km — 100 KRW ($0.07). Apps KakaoTaxi and UT (Uber in Korea). Night surcharge from 22:00 — +20%. Kakao Black (black minivans) — fixed fare, English-speaking driver.

Seoul Bike (Ttareungi) — 2,500 stations across the city, convenient along the Han River. 1,000 KRW ($0.75) per hour, 5,000 KRW ($3.80) per day. T-money card or app.

On foot — the historic center is compact. Gyeongbokgung to Insadong — 10 minutes, to Bukchon — 15 minutes, to Gwangjang Market — 25 minutes. The Cheonggyecheon stream creates a pleasant walking route through downtown.

Street food

Myeongdong and Gwangjang Market are the main spots. Tteokbokki (rice cylinders in spicy gochujang sauce) — 3,000-4,000 KRW ($2.30-3). Hotteok (sweet pancake with peanut) — 1,500 KRW ($1.15). Filled rice ball — 2,000 KRW ($1.50). Corn dog — 2,500 KRW ($1.90). Full snack tour — 8,000-12,000 KRW ($6-9).

Standard restaurants

Bibimbap (rice with vegetables and egg) — 8,000-12,000 KRW ($6-9). Sundubu-jjigae (tofu in spicy broth) — 8,000-10,000 KRW ($6-7.50). Kimchi-jjigae (kimchi and pork soup) — 7,000-9,000 KRW ($5.30-6.80). Decent ramyeon — 8,000-12,000 KRW ($6-9). Student cafeteria meal at a university (SNU, Yonsei, Korea University) — 5,000-6,000 KRW ($3.80-4.50).

Samgyeopsal (DIY grill)

Korean barbecue — you grill the meat at the table. Samgyeopsal (pork belly, 200 g) — 12,000-18,000 KRW ($9-14). Sogalbi (pork ribs) — 15,000-25,000 KRW ($11-19). Comes with 8-10 free banchan: kimchi, spinach, bean sprouts, pickled garlic, ssamjang paste. Best with 2-4 people.

Must-tries

Haemul pajeon (seafood pancake with scallions) — crispy and filling. Best at Gwangjang Market, stalls near the main entrance: 10,000-15,000 KRW ($7.60-11).

Samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) — traditional summer dish, eaten year-round. Tosokchon Samgyetang, 5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu — morning queue, worth it: 17,000 KRW ($13).

Bibimbap — Seoul's best is at Jeonju Jungang Hoekwan in Insadong: 11,000 KRW ($8.30).

Coffee and cafes — a cult. Specialty coffee in Seoul is at Tokyo's level. Seongsu and Itaewon are concentrations of independent cafes. Americano 4,000-5,000 KRW ($3-3.80), latte 5,000-6,000 KRW ($3.80-4.50).

Night markets — Yeongdeungpo Night Market runs Friday-Sunday from 19:00 to 23:00. Fresh seafood, sashimi, hoe (Korean raw fish). Assorted platter for two: 30,000-50,000 KRW ($23-38).

Visa rules vary by nationality. Current state as of April 2026:

K-ETA (Korea Electronic Travel Authorization) — pre-authorization system. Apply at k-eta.go.kr for 10,000 KRW ($7.50) or free during certain periods. Processing: 72 hours. Required for visa-free travelers from most countries (US, UK, EU, etc.).

Tourist visa C-3 — for stays up to 90 days for nationalities that need one (e.g., Russia). Apply at the Korean consulate or visa center in your country. Documents: form, passport, photo, proof of employment or funds, travel itinerary. Processing: 5-7 working days. Cost varies.

What to include on the application — Seoul hotel address (booking confirmation is fine), travel itinerary (even approximate), return ticket. Refusals are rare for first-time visitors with proof of funds.

Insurance — not legally required, but essential. Korean medicine is expensive: doctor visit 30,000-50,000 KRW ($23-38), hospitalization from 300,000 KRW ($228)/day. 2-week insurance with $50,000 coverage — from $25 (typical providers).

Internet and connectivity — buy a SIM card at Incheon Airport (terminal 1, arrivals zone): KT, SK Telecom, LG U+. 10 GB over 10 days: 25,000-30,000 KRW ($19-23). Alternative: pocket WiFi rental, from 30,000 KRW ($23) for 10 days, useful for two people traveling together. Metro and cafes offer free WiFi everywhere.

Money — Woori Bank, Kookmin Bank, KEB Hana ATMs support international cards. Incheon Airport has exchange counters with good rates (better than large hotels). Cash is needed at markets and small eateries; everywhere else takes cards.

Naver Maps — works more accurately than Google Maps in Korea. Google lacks access to detailed national maps (regulation). Download Naver Maps before your trip. Interface switches to English.

Korean etiquette — a few rules that matter. Use two hands when accepting or handing something — a sign of respect. Don't queue at a register holding food. Don't eat while walking — considered impolite. On the metro, no loud phone calls. Give up your seat for elders.

Safety — Seoul ranks in the top 5 safest capitals in the world. Pickpockets are almost nonexistent. You can leave a laptop on a cafe table and grab a coffee — no one will take it. The one risk: traffic accidents from jaywalking.

Pharmacies — Olive Young chain (cosmetics + pharmacy) on every corner. Popular Korean pimple patches, sheet masks, hangover remedies (Condition 컨디션) — buy and bring home. Prescription medicines from home are usually obtainable without a local prescription.

Tipping — not customary in Korea. Restaurants, taxis, hotels — no tip expected. Exception: some touristy spots in Myeongdong add 10% service charge.

Shopping and VAT refund — purchases of 30,000 KRW ($23) and up at a single Tax Free shop qualify for a 10% VAT refund at the airport. Passport required at payment plus receipt. Refund in cash or to card at Incheon Airport (counters before customs).