Istanbul in 3 days: gastronomic itinerary through the city's best flavors

Morning

Start with a real Turkish breakfast — kahvalti — at Van Kahvalti Evi (Defterdar Ykş. No:52A, Cihangir). Cult spot with Van-style breakfast: 15-20 cheeses, honey with butter, eggs with pastırma, fresh vegetables and bottomless tea. Plan about 300-400 lira per person — worth it. Arrive at 9:00 — queues from 10.

After breakfast — walk through the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) by Eminönü. Spices, dried fruits, handmade Turkish lokum and proper Turkish coffee. Ask vendors for samples — it's the norm. Note Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir — Istanbul's oldest confectioner since 1777, address: Hamidiye Cad. No:83.

Afternoon

Lunch at Karaköy Lokantası (Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Kemankeş Cad. No:37A). The textbook Istanbul lokanta with classic Turkish dishes: lentil soup, dolma, slow-cooked lamb. Lunch will run 400-600 lira per person. Reservation advisable.

After lunch head to the fish market Balıkpazarı in Beyoğlu (around Sahne Sokak). A live market selling fresh fish and seafood straight from the boats. Adjacent — small taverns cooking it in front of you. Try hamsi tava — fried anchovies, Istanbul's autumn-winter delicacy.

Evening

Dinner at Mikla (The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Cad. No:15) — one of Istanbul's best restaurants. Chef Mehmet Gürs works with Anatolian ingredients in modern interpretations. Bosphorus view from the roof. Reservation essential, tasting menu from 2000 lira. On a tight budget you can drop in for a glass of wine and small plates.

Morning

Ferry from Karaköy to Kadıköy is itself an attraction: views of the minarets and cups of tea from a boy in a white jacket right on board (çay on the ferry is mandatory). About 20-25 minutes en route.

Kadıköy is the foodie district of the Asian side. Start at Kadıköy Çarşısı market: olives of dozens of varieties, brined cheeses, fresh herbs and cured meats. Visit Baylan (Mühürdar Cad. No:19) — confectioner since 1923, legendary kuru köfte and bomba pastries. Breakfast of coffee and a few pastries — about 200 lira.

Afternoon

Lunch at Çiya Sofrası (Güneşlibahçe Sok. No:43, Kadıköy) — a must for anyone interested in Anatolian cuisine. Chef Musa Dağdeviren gathers recipes from across Turkey: rare mezze, slow-cooked dishes, regional bakes you rarely find in tourist restaurants. Queue is normal, lunch menu about 400-600 lira. Next door — Çiya Kebab, where they grill proper kebab over coals.

After lunch — walk Moda, Kadıköy's coastal quarter. Many third-wave coffee shops, small bakeries and gelaterias. Try künefe at Hafız Mustafa 1864 (Kadıköy branch) — hot dessert of pulled cheese in syrup topped with pistachios.

Evening

Dinner at Kadı Nimet Balıkçısı (Yeldeğirmeni Mah., Mühürdar Cad. No:10) — fish restaurant open since 1938. Menu depends on the catch: winter — sea bass and bluefish; summer adds octopus and squid. Seafood mezze + grilled fish + a glass of rakı = about 800-1200 lira per person. A true Istanbul evening.

MorningMorning of Day 3 — coffee walk through Beyoğlu. Start at Kronotrop Coffee Bar (Tomtom Kaptan Sok. No:12) — one of Istanbul's first third-wave roasters, espresso and filter. Cup — 80-120 lira.

Nearby — Karaköy Güllüoğlu (Rıhtım Cad. No:3-4, Karaköy) — Istanbul's best baklava per local consensus. Open since 1949. The key difference from tourist shops: paper-thin dough, real Iranian pistachios, clarified butter. Portion 200-250 lira; try sarma and fıstıklı.

Afternoon

Lunch at Nicole (Tomtom Kaptan Sok. No:4) — restaurant of chef Aylin Yazıcıoğlu, included on Turkey's best lists. Author cuisine with local seasonal ingredients; lunch tasting menu — about 1500 lira. Reservation essential.

After lunch — visit to Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) on İstiklal: a historic 19th-century passage with meyhanes (small taverns). Another spot — Avrupa Passage, where you can try midye dolma (mussels with rice and spices).

Evening

Final dinner at Neolokal (SALT Galata, Bankalar Cad. No:11, Karaköy) — restaurant with the 'new Anatolian cuisine' concept, chef Maksut Aşkar. Menu changes seasonally; dishes based on archival recipes from across Turkey. Tasting menu of 8 courses — about 2000-2500 lira, with wine pricier. One of the city's best gastronomic experiences.

To farewell — midye dolma from a street vendor: rice-stuffed mussels sold everywhere across nighttime Beyoğlu. 12-15 lira each, eaten standing — it's the ritual.

Rain in Istanbul is no reason to postpone the gastro plan. Here's what to do:

• Karaköy Güllüoğlu — legendary baklava shop by Karaköy waterfront since 1949. People come here intentionally — paper-thin dough, Iranian pistachios, clarified butter. An hour at a table with tea and baklava lifts any rainy day.
• Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) — for a foodie this isn't just a souvenir market. Shops with real lokum, halva, dried fruits and spices. The 'Şekerci Cafer Erol' shop is a must-stop.
• Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) — 17th-century covered spice market where you can gather isot, sumac, tar and all without a drop of rain outside.
• Turkish Flavours cooking class — several schools in Beyoğlu hold Turkish cuisine lessons on rainy days. Learn to cook mezze and lentil soup — 3-4 hours.
• Karaköy Lokantası — textbook modern lokanta in a covered space with panoramic windows. Perfect for a long lunch in bad weather with a Bosphorus view.

Tip: Istanbul is rainier than expected, especially October to March. Carry an umbrella and don't cancel the gastronomic itinerary — markets and restaurants work in any weather.