Baku: Where the East Meets Oil Money

Morning: Icherisheher (Old City)

Start at the Maiden Tower (Qiz Qalasi) — 12th century, 29 meters, entry 15 AZN. The top has a panoramic view. From there, wind through narrow streets to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs (15th century, UNESCO, entry 15 AZN). Breakfast at Art Garden — menemen (egg-and-tomato scramble) with armudu tea for 8 AZN. Address: Icherisheher, Kichik Gala St. 8.

Day: Waterfront and Center

The Seaside Boulevard stretches 4 km along the Caspian. Ride the Ferris wheel (5 AZN). Take the funicular up to Highland Park (1 AZN) — the best view of the city. The Flame Towers sit right in front of you. The Heydar Aliyev Center (Zaha Hadid architecture, entry 15 AZN) — a must for the building; the exhibition is secondary.

Evening: Dinner with a View

Restaurant Sahil (waterfront) — plov, lulya-kebab, dolma, 60-80 AZN for two. Or budget option: Fisincan (Kichik Gala St. 6, in the Old City) — tandoor kebab 12 AZN. After dinner, watch the Flame Towers light up (21:00-22:00).

Mistake 1: Skipping Gobustan. 40,000-year-old rock carvings (UNESCO) and mud volcanoes, just 60 km from Baku. Taxi 40-50 AZN round trip with wait. Park entry 10 AZN.

Mistake 2: Eating only in the Old City. It's expensive and mediocre there. The best restaurants are outside the walls: Dolma (Nizami St. 207, average check 30 AZN) or Mangal Steak House (charcoal-grilled meat, 20-35 AZN).

Mistake 3: Skipping tea houses. The tradition of armudu tea (pear-shaped glass) with fig or walnut jam is the real Baku. Tea at a chaikhana — 2-3 AZN.

Mistake 4: Not bargaining. At Teze Bazar and souvenir shops, prices are inflated 2-3x. Bargaining is expected and respected.

Ateshgah — fire-worshippers' temple on Baku's outskirts. Natural gas burns straight from the ground. 30 minutes from the center, entry 9 AZN.

Yanardag (burning mountain) — a hillside that has burned for thousands of years (natural gas). 25 km from the center, entry 9 AZN. Better in the evening — the fire is more dramatic in the dark.

Bilgah — a beach 35 km from the center. Clean water, sand, infrastructure. Taxi 15-20 AZN. In summer, water temperature reaches 24-26°C.

Khinalug — the oldest village in the Caucasus at 2,350 m, where residents speak their own language. Four hours from Baku, requires a 4WD. For travelers who want to see Azerbaijan beyond the oil-money gloss.

Plov — the signature dish. Shah-plov (in pastry) — 15-25 AZN. Try Fisincan or Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant.

Lulya-kebab — char-grilled lamb. 8-12 AZN per serving.

Kutab — thin flatbreads with greens or meat. 3-5 AZN each. The best are at cafes by the Old City walls.

Dolma — stuffed grape leaves. 10-15 AZN.

Pakhlava — walnut and honey. A box for gifts runs 10-15 AZN at the market.

Tea — served in an armudu (pear-shaped glass) with white-cherry, fig, or walnut jam. 2-3 AZN at a chaikhana.

Taxis — Yandex.Taxi or Bolt. Around town 3-7 AZN. Airport transfer 15-20 AZN, 25 km.

Metro — 3 lines, clean and fast. BakiKart card — 2 AZN deposit plus 0.4 AZN per ride. Runs 6:00-24:00.

Heydar Aliyev Airport (GYD) — 25 km from the center. Express bus H1: 1.5 AZN, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes.

Money — 1 USD = ~1.7 AZN. Stable exchange rate (pegged to the dollar). Kapital Bank and Pasha Bank ATMs everywhere. Cards accepted almost everywhere.

Language — Azerbaijani (Turkic family, close to Turkish). 40-50% of the population speaks Russian, more in the center. Younger people increasingly speak English.

SIM card — Azercell or Bakcell at the airport. 10 AZN for 5 GB over 30 days. Passport required.

Safety — a very safe city. Police visible everywhere. Walking at night is fine. One caveat: don't photograph military or government buildings up close.