Baku in 3 Days: The Old City, Flame Towers, and the Caspian

Day one is the heart of Baku: the medieval old city and the symbols of modern Azerbaijan.

Morning

Start at Icherisheher — the old city inside the fortress walls, a UNESCO site. Enter through the gates near the "Icherisheher" metro station. Narrow streets with wrought-iron gates and the scent of spices. Walk without a route: duck into the courtyards, climb the walls.

Visit the Maiden Tower (Giz Galasi) — 12th century, 8 floors, entry 8 manat. The view from the tower over the Old City and the Caspian. Next to it — the Palace of the Shirvanshahs (entry 8 manat) — the 15th-century residence of the Shirvanshahs.

Breakfast: cafe Sheki Khan inside Icherisheher — try kufta-bozbash (meatball and chickpea soup) and hot tea with fig jam.

Day

Fountain Square (Fontanlar Meydani) — the center of Baku, ringed by cafes, shops, and old mansions from the early 20th-century oil boom. Nearby — Highland Park: take the funicular (2 manat) or walk up. Here is the Alley of Martyrs and the best view of the Flame Towers — three skyscrapers shaped like tongues of flame.

Lunch: restaurant Mugam Club (Icherisheher, 9 Hagigat Rzayeva St.) — Azerbaijani cuisine, live mugham music at lunch. Try dolma (grape leaves stuffed with meat) and levengi (chicken with walnut stuffing).

Evening

After dark the Flame Towers turn on their fire illumination — best viewed from Highland Park or the boulevard. Have dinner at Gelin Gelsin on Istiglaliyyat St. 42 — family atmosphere, homemade pilaf, basturma, and kutabs (thin pies with greens or meat).

A day for the sea-that-isn't and local neighborhoods away from the tourist routes.

Morning

Seaside Boulevard — 20 km of waterfront along the Caspian, the longest boulevard space in the world. In the morning, locals walk, run, and bring their children. Rent a bike (5-8 manat/hour) and ride from the center to the White City. The Caspian is an inland sea-lake, almost saltless, and freezes in the north in winter.

Breakfast: cafe Karas on the boulevard — pastries, tea in armuda glasses (Azerbaijani pear-shaped glasses), local sweets baklava and shekerbura.

Day

The Yasamal district — where ordinary Baku residents live, not tourists. The Beyukshor Bazaar — spices, vegetables, dried fruits, nuts. Buy dried plums, sumac, and saffron — real Azerbaijani saffron, the best in the world. Prices are far lower than in tourist shops.

Lunch: in Yasamal try piti — a soup in a clay pot with lamb, chickpeas, and chestnuts. Cooks for several hours, eaten in two stages: first the broth with bread, then the meat with potatoes. Restaurant Tin on Yasamal Street.

Evening

Baku hammam Agalar Hamami in Icherisheher — historic baths from the 15th century. From 25-30 manat including a kese scrub. A great way to end the day. Then — dinner on the terrace of 360° on the top floor of the Park Bulvar mall with a panorama of nighttime Baku.

Last day — a natural attraction 25 km from Baku and a farewell lunch.

Morning

Yanardag (Burning Mountain) — a natural eternal flame on a hillside. Natural gas seeping from the ground has burned for thousands of years — this is what gave Azerbaijan its name as the "Land of Fire." Taxi from Baku — 20-25 manat one way. Best in the morning before the crowds.

On the way, stop at Surakhani — the Ateshgah (Fire Temple), a 19th-century Zoroastrian temple where pilgrims worshipped the natural flame. Entry 2 manat.

Breakfast: bring something from Baku or eat at the cafe by Yanardag.

Day

Back to central Baku. If there's time — visit the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum (boulevard, near the Flag) — a unique building shaped like a rolled carpet. Inside, thousands of exhibits, the history of carpet weaving from the 3rd century. Entry 6 manat.

Farewell lunch: restaurant Plovdag or Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant in Icherisheher — order real Azerbaijani pilaf with a side of qaqala, eggs, and raisins. The pilaf here is fluffy, with saffron — nothing like the Central Asian version.

Evening

Heydar Aliyev Airport is 20 km from the center, taxi 20-30 manat, bus #195 — 0.5 manat (but slow). Leave with extra time — Baku rush-hour traffic is unpredictable. At the airport, pick up Azerbaijani brandy "Arpa" or Ganja wine at the last minute — duty-free prices are reasonable.