Tbilisi in 4 days: a long weekend itinerary

Morning

Start in the Abanotubani district — sulphur bath quarter at the foot of the fortress. Here are 19th-century domed baths: Chreli-Abano (Abanotubani St., 4) and Royal Bath — private baths with sulphur pools. An hour in a private bath — 50-100 lari for two. The smell is specific, the benefits real.

After baths — breakfast at Fabula Coffee (Kote Abkhazi St., 20) or Lolita Bar & Kitchen in the Old City: coffee, eggs with Georgian spices and fresh puri.

Afternoon

Climb to Narikala Fortress on foot through Rike Park or by cable car (Vagonka) from Rike Park — 2.5 lari. Best panorama of the old city from the fortress. Descend on foot through the Botanical Garden (2 lari entry) — waterfall, trails, shaded alleys.

Lunch at Maspindzelo (Pa'ta Tsagareli St., 3) — traditional Georgian restaurant with fireplace and courtyard. Dishes cooked in a tonir and wood oven. Chashushuli, khinkali, lobiani. 40-60 lari per person.

Evening

Walk along Shardeni Street with stops. Wine at G.Vino Wine Bar (Shardeni St., 14) — huge selection of Georgian wines, sommelier explains the difference between mtsvane and kakhuri. Dinner at Cafe Leila (Griboedov St., 4) — Middle Eastern cuisine in Tbilisi style, beautiful courtyard.

Morning

Morning in Avlabari — Armenian quarter with wooden balconies overgrown with grape vines. Walk the alleys, step into courtyards through open gates (it's normal — Tbilisians don't close courtyards). Metekhi Church on the cliff above the Mtkvari — one of the city's oldest (5th century).

Breakfast at Entree (several locations) or any local bakery: fresh tonir bread-puri, cheese, greens — about 15 lari.

Afternoon

Cross to modern Tbilisi. Bridge of Peace — glass pedestrian bridge over the Mtkvari designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi. Next to it — Rike Park with playgrounds and summer jazz concerts.

Rustaveli Avenue — the city's main street: National Museum, Parliament, Opera. Visit the Georgian National Gallery (Rustaveli St., 11) — permanent collection of 19th-20th century Georgian art. Entry about 15 lari.

Lunch at Kiwi Cafe (Tavdadebuli St., 5) — light lunch, good soups, homely atmosphere. About 25-35 lari.

Evening

Evening at Fabrika (Davit Aghmashenebeli St., 8) — former Soviet factory with bars, restaurants, club and shops. Beer from Caucasian Brewery, street food from various spots, live music in the evenings. The vibe is a mix of Berlin's Mitte and Tbilisi nonchalance.

Morning

Don't rush anywhere. Late breakfast at Cafe Stamba (Kostava St., 14) in a former Soviet printing house: high ceilings, lots of greenery, great coffee and seasonal breakfasts. About 30-40 lari.

Sunday market on the Dry Bridge — flea market with Soviet artifacts, antiques, old coins, Georgian silver and icons. Bargaining is fair. You can spend a couple of hours here and leave with something unique for 10-50 lari.

Afternoon

After the market — back to the baths if you skipped yesterday, or just a slow walk through Sololaki — district of late 19th–early 20th-century Art Nouveau mansions. The Tbilisi intelligentsia lived here: beautiful facades, quiet streets, cats everywhere.

Lunch at Littera (Machabeli St., 13) — restaurant in the Writers' Union of Georgia building with a garden. Beautiful spot, classic Georgian cuisine done well. 60-80 lari with wine.

Evening

In the evening — tasting at Wine Factory 1 (Kakheti Highway, 10) or at any city wine festival (if it coincides). Cap the evening on a terrace with Narikala view: Funicular restaurant (atop the hill via cable car from Rike Park) — pricey, but the view is worth a glass.

Morning

Trip to Mtskheta — ancient capital of Georgia, 20 km from Tbilisi. Marshrutka from Didube metro — 2 lari, about 30 minutes. Main sight: Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (11th century) — one of the country's main Orthodox cathedrals, the coronation site of Georgian kings. Free entry, peaceful courtyard with frescoes inside.

Climb to Jvari Monastery — on the mountaintop where you see the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari. Steep walk or taxi 10-15 lari from Mtskheta. The view is a postcard.

Afternoon

Lunch in Mtskheta: many small cafes near Svetitskhoveli with traditional cuisine. Restaurant Salobie Bia (Gorgasali St., 12, Mtskheta) — home-style Georgian cuisine, big portions, prices half Tbilisi's. Try mtskhetauri khachapuri — flat, with Imeretian cheese.

After lunch — return to Tbilisi and free time. Shopping on Rustaveli or at Galleria Tbilisi (Rustaveli St., 2-4). Souvenirs: churchkhela, adjika, natural wine in qvevri, Georgian silver.

Evening

Farewell dinner at Barbarestan (Agmashenebeli St., 132) if you didn't go on day 1, or Keto & Kote for a more relaxed option. A last glass of wine over the old city — and that's it, Tbilisi has made you fall for it.

Rain in Tbilisi is no reason to sit in the hotel. Here's what to do:

• Abanotubani sulphur baths — best rainy-day move. Private pool with hot sulphur water for two — 50-100 lari per hour. Chreli-Abano or Royal Bath, better to book ahead.
• Georgian National Museum (Rustaveli Ave., 3) — Colchian gold, ancient history dioramas and Soviet-era halls. Easy to kill 2-3 hours. Entry 15 lari.
• Café Stamba (Kostava St., 14) — coffee and restaurant in a Soviet printing house with huge windows and high ceilings. Perfect for a long rainy-day breakfast with a book or laptop.
• Dezertirka Market — covered labyrinth with hundreds of stalls. Tbilisians shop for groceries; tourists come for atmosphere. Free, warm, dry.
• Vino Underground (Galaktion Tabidze St., 15) — natural Georgian wine bar in a cellar. On a rainy evening — perfect spot to start figuring out rkatsiteli and saperavi.

Tip: Tbilisi downpours hit suddenly but usually pass fast. Caught in bad weather — duck into the first cafe with big windows and wait it out with khinkali and a glass of wine.