Tbilisi in 5 days: itinerary for those who come for food and wine

Morning

First morning at Dezertirka Market (Dezertirsky Bazaar), near Samgori metro, Nino Chkheidze St. This is Tbilisi's main food market: homemade cheeses (sulguni, naduri, Imeretian), spices, walnut-and-plum jam, fresh herbs, tklapi (sun-dried sour-plum sheets). Vendors offer samples — take them.

Definitely try naduri — soft curd cheese eaten with mint. Buy some — it's delicious on bread without a recipe.

Breakfast right at the market or at coffee shop Entree (Pushkin St., 4) — one of Tbilisi's first specialty coffee spots, on a European-capital level.

Afternoon

Lunch at Racha (Iakobi St., 6) — classic Georgian restaurant in Old Tbilisi. Lobiani (bean flatbread), chicken satsivi, kharcho — everything right and without tourist markup. Lunch for two: 50-80 lari.

After lunch — walk along Shardeni Street, Tbilisi's gastronomic heart. Restaurants, wine bars and cafes everywhere. Drop by Vino Underground (Galaktion Tabidze St., 15) — natural wine from small Georgian producers you won't find in shops. Glass — 15-25 lari.

Evening

Dinner at Barbarestan (Davit Aghmashenebeli St., 132) — one of Tbilisi's best restaurants. Menu based on the 19th-century cookbook of Georgian writer Barbara Jorjadze. Chkmeruli (chicken in cream sauce), roast pig, salad with walnuts. Average 60-90 lari per person with wine. Reservation essential.

Morning

Start with khinkali. One rule: real khinkali are hand-made, the filling is spiced beef-pork mince with greens, the broth inside is the proof of craftsmanship. Khinkali Zakhar Zakharych (Mtkvari St., 3, near the Dry Bridge) — best in town by most Tbilisians' vote. Portion of 5 — about 18-22 lari. Eat with hands, don't eat the stem.

Alternative in the center: Cafe Littera (Machabeli St., 13) — restaurant in the Writers' House with a garden, serves khinkali and Georgian appetizers in a more refined setting.

Afternoon

Lunch at Shavi Lomi (Nino Chkheidze St., 4) — the 'Black Lion' restaurant, one of the pioneers of new Tbilisi dining. Seasonal menu, local products, technique. Try the eggplant with walnut and pomegranate — it's another dimension here. Lunch — 60-90 lari.

After lunch — coffee walk through Marjanishvili: Fabrika (Davit Aghmashenebeli St., 8) — former sewing factory, now creative cluster with cafes, bars and restaurants of different cuisines. Pick up homemade infusions and wine from local producers.

Evening

Dinner at Azarpesha (Ingorokva St., 2) — author Georgian cuisine with focus on fermentation and technique. Tasting menu with wine pairings — about 150-200 lari per person. One of the city's best modern restaurants.

Morning

One-day trip to Kakheti — Georgia's main wine region. Distance from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi — about 2 hours by car or marshrutka from Isani bus station. Better to take a taxi or rent a car — more freedom.

First stop: Alaverdi Monastery (11th century) in Alaverdi village, Akhmeta district — produces its own monastery wine using the qvevri method. Catch a cellar tour — unforgettable.

Afternoon

Drive to Tsinandali or Kvareli — several family wineries are open: Teliani Valley, Khareba Winery (in a 7.7 km rock tunnel). Tasting of 5-7 wines — 20-40 lari.

Lunch in a village: any local 'khorchi' (canteen) offers mtsvadi (beef shashlik), satsivi from house chicken, Imeretian khachapuri. Prices half Tbilisi.

Evening

If time allows — Sighnaghi at sunset: 'city of love' on a hill with Alazani Valley view. Dinner at Pheasant's Tears (Baratashvili St., 18, Sighnaghi) — legendary restaurant with John Wurdeman's natural wines and dishes from organic Kakheti products. Return to Tbilisi in the evening.

Morning

Start Day 4 with Adjarian khachapuri — a dough boat with cheese, egg and butter. Best in Tbilisi at Machakhela (Aghmashenebeli St., 124, and other branches) — chain of family Adjarian-cuisine restaurants. Solo khachapuri runs 15-20 lari and is hefty — start with one for two.

After khachapuri — walk through Avlabari: Armenian quarter with historic houses, balconies drowning in grapevines. Many small cafes and bakeries.

Afternoon

Lunch at Keto & Kote (Ksani St., 4) — small Georgian restaurant without pretense: huge portions, home taste, laughable prices. Chashushuli (veal with tomatoes and spices) and lobio in a pot — exactly what you need.

After lunch: visit to the Tbilisi National Wine Gallery (Heroes St., 1) — tasting of 10-15 wines from various Georgian regions, educational program. About 40-60 lari with tasting.

Evening

Dinner at Culinarium Khasheria (Tsereteli St., 77) — the restaurant specializes in khashi (rich soup of beef legs) and other 'honest' Georgian dishes. Khashi is traditionally eaten in the morning after a feast, but here it's served at evening with sour milk and garlic. Unusual but must-try.

Morning

Last morning — at Eliava Market (Sunday flea market) or Vernissage Market (souvenirs, artifacts, homemade preserves). Take home: churchkhela (nuts in grape juice), tklapi (sour fruit leather), dry and wet adjika, mountain herb tea.

Breakfast at Bread & Co (Iveria St., 1) or Coffeesta — modern coffee shops with pastries and sandwiches. Puri (Georgian tonir bread) with cheese and greens — best breakfast on the go.

Afternoon

Final lunch at Stamba (Kostava St., 14) — restaurant in a former Soviet printing house. Open kitchen, menu with seasonal Georgian dishes in modern presentation, strong bar list with natural wines. One of the city's most Instagram-friendly restaurants, but the kitchen is on level too. Lunch — 70-100 lari.

After lunch — wine shopping: Wine Factory 1 (Kakheti Highway) — large wine warehouse with below-retail prices, huge selection. Take home a bottle of rkatsiteli in qvevri, saperavi and khvanchkara — the set explains everything about Georgia.

Evening

Farewell evening at Amas (Shota Rustaveli St., 16) — bar with natural Georgian wines and small plates. Or simply — a glass of wine on a balcony overlooking the sulphur baths and Narikala. That's how Tbilisi should end.

Rain in Tbilisi is no reason to postpone the gastronomic itinerary. Here's what to do:

• Barbarestan (Aghmashenebeli St., 132) — restaurant with a menu from a 19th-century cookbook. In bad weather it's coziest here — wooden interiors, warm light, long dinner with chkmeruli and wine. Book ahead.
• Dezertirka Market — covered food market where you can spend half a day tasting sulguni, naduri and homemade infusions right at the counters.
• Vino Underground (Galaktion Tabidze St., 15) — cellar bar of natural wines. Rain outside, qvevri rkatsiteli in hand — a special Tbilisi meditation.
• Café Stamba (Kostava St., 14) — Soviet printing house with 7-meter ceilings. Best rainy-day breakfast or lunch, plus great coffee and a natural wine list.
• Culinarium Khasheria (Tsereteli St., 77) — if you didn't try khashi in dry weather, rain is the perfect excuse. Hot rich beef-leg soup with sour milk and garlic warms better than any heater.

Tip: in Tbilisi rain is reason to settle deeper into a dukhan. Order more khinkali and a carafe of wine — nowhere to rush; Georgians never hurry guests.