Yerevan in 3 Days on a Budget: An Itinerary with Brandy and No Waste

Morning

Start at Republic Square (Respublika Hraparak) — the heart of Yerevan. A vast open square with singing fountains (running in the evening), surrounded by pink-dark 1950s Soviet empire buildings. Free entry, almost empty in the morning — great photos.

Breakfast on North Avenue (Hyusisain Prospekt) — a pedestrian street with cafes. Look for Jazzve or any coffee shop with Armenian coffee (250-300 AMD) and boereg (a flaky pastry with cottage cheese or greens, 300-500 AMD).

Day

Head to the Vernissage Market — open on weekends (Saturday-Sunday), by Victory Park. It's a mix of flea market, folk crafts, and antiques. Armenian carpets, pomegranate brandy in souvenir bottles, stone carving, old coins, and Soviet pins. Just looking is free and very interesting.

Lunch at Dolmama Cafe (10 Pushkin St.) — traditional Armenian cuisine at reasonable prices. Dolma (grape leaves stuffed with meat), khash, kufta (minced-meat patties). Lunch 2,000-3,500 AMD per person ($5-9).

Evening

In the evening — the Cascade. A giant white-stone staircase with modern sculptures on every level. Climb up — view of all Yerevan and (on clear days) Ararat. Free entry; the elevator inside the monument is paid (500 AMD). Watch the sunset from here.

Dinner at a bar-restaurant at the foot of the Cascade: Calumet or Sherep — cocktails, Armenian snacks, live music in the evenings. Budget option: buy ARARAT brandy (500-700 AMD per 50 ml at the bar) and khash-pilaf to-go at the nearest shop.

Morning

Day two — out of the city. Garni and Geghard are the two main sites near Yerevan. Getting there: marshrutka from Yeraplur Bus Station (Kilikia, near the metro) to Garni — 400-500 AMD, 40 minutes. Leave at 9:00 — at Garni by 10:00.

The Garni Temple (1st century AD) is the only pagan colonnaded temple in Armenia, perched on the edge of a mountain gorge above the Azat River. Entry 1,500 AMD ($4). View from below at the basalt cliffs "Symphony of Stones" — walk down 20 minutes from the parking area.

Day

From Garni — marshrutka or hitched ride to Geghard, 10 km. The 10th-13th century monastery is partly carved into the cliff — unique Armenian architecture. Dark cave halls, carved khachkars (stone crosses) in the walls, echoing voices. Free entry. Be sure to enter the deepest part — a spring with holy water flows from the cliff.

Lunch in the village by the monastery: local hostesses sell khorovats (kebab) right in their yards. Lamb khash, lavash with cheese. 1,500-2,500 AMD for a hearty lunch. This is the best Armenian food at the best prices.

Evening

Back to Yerevan around 17-18:00. In the evening head to Saryan Street — Yerevan's unofficial street of wine and snacks. Small restaurants and cellars offer local wine for 800-1,500 AMD per glass. Try gata (a sweet flaky pastry) for dessert — 300-400 AMD.

Morning

The Matenadaran — the largest archive of Armenian manuscripts in the world. Located on the hill above Mashtots Avenue. Inside: manuscripts from the 5th-18th centuries, gold miniatures, the Armenian Bible from the 12th century. Entry 1,500 AMD. Guided tour in English — 3,000 AMD. At least an hour.

Breakfast before the visit — at Jazzve on Mashtots (several across the city): Arabic coffee in copper, sandwiches with brynza and greens. 500-700 AMD.

Day

The GUM Market (Merkur Market) next to Yeritasardakan metro — a covered Soviet-era food market. Spices, greens, homemade brandy in jugs, dried fruits, mold cheeses, basturma, kebab to-go. The smells are extraordinary.

Buy souvenirs here, not in tourist shops: 1 kg of dried figs — 1,500-2,000 AMD, 100 g of basturma — 800-1,200 AMD, Armenian-roast coffee beans — 2,000-3,000 AMD per 250 g.

Lunch: GUM has a small prepared food row — soup spas (a fermented milk soup with wheat), lavash with stuffing, zhingyalov hats (bread with greens). 600-1,000 AMD for lunch.

Evening

Final evening — brandy tasting. The most accessible way: the ARARAT Factory (Yerevan Brandy Company), a tour of production plus a tasting of 5 varieties — 6,000-8,000 AMD ($15-20). Book ahead through the website.

Farewell dinner at Cafe Popok (8 Abovyan St.) — a young place with Armenian cuisine reinterpreted. Khorovats wrap, an assortment of dolma, homemade lemonades. Bill for two — 5,000-8,000 AMD.