Tbilisi in Spring: Gastro Route Through the Georgian Capital
Tbilisi in spring is a combination hard to get wrong. April and May give ideal weather for walking the Old Town: 18-24C, green slopes along the Kura river, blooming magnolias in the gardens. And the food - the main reason people keep coming back.
Georgian cuisine is one of the world's oldest, with over 8,000 years of history (Georgia is where the earliest traces of winemaking were found). Spring adds seasonal dishes to the traditional repertoire: young nettle shoots and ramson in pkhali, spring herbs in green kharcho, the first cherries at Dezertirka market.
This route takes you through the best restaurants in 19th-century houses, small wine bars in Fabrika, an open-air market and family feasts (if you're lucky enough to land one). Food budget: 15 to 50 EUR per day - in Tbilisi this is realistic.
Tbilisi Weather in Spring
March: 10-16C, changeable. Sometimes rain, but already warm enough for walks. Slopes around the city start to green up.
April: 15-22C, lots of sun. Gardens bloom, summer terraces open. The best month for a first visit - not hot, not cold, tourists still few.
May: 20-27C, nearly summer. First cherries at the markets (worth a trip in May just for this). Evenings warm, you can sit outside until midnight.
Tbilisi is a hill city, the elevation difference between lower and upper parts reaches 300 meters. The top (Narikala, Mtatsminda) is always 3-4 degrees cooler than the center.
What to Eat: Mandatory Dishes
Khinkali - Georgian dumplings with broth inside. Eat correctly with hands, biting a little and drinking the broth. Don't eat the tail. Best in the city - at Pasanauri and Zakhar Zakharich. One piece - 1.5-3 lari.
Adjaruli khachapuri - boat-shaped dough with egg and butter. Break the edges and dip in the yolk. Portion - 12-18 lari.
Pkhali - rolls of spinach or beet with nuts and pomegranate. In spring they add nettles and ramson - this is the seasonal version. Light, refreshing starter.
Ojakhuri - potato with meat on a pan. Sounds simple, but done right - dinner for two.
Natural wines: Georgia is the homeland of amphora wines. Orange wine (qvevri) from Rkatsiteli or Mtsvane - must try. Wine bar Wine Factory 1 has a huge selection.
Best Restaurants in Tbilisi in Spring
Cafe Littera - restaurant in an old mansion serving modern Georgian cuisine. The garden terrace in spring is one of the city's most beautiful spots. Average check - 30-50 EUR.
Shavi Lomi (Black Lion) - authentic Georgian cuisine in a quiet Old Town lane. No tourist menu - what locals eat. Khashlama and lobiani here are the city's best.
Keto and Kote - small restaurant with open kitchen and organic ingredients. The chef works with local farmers. Seasonal menu changes weekly.
Fabrika - former factory turned hipster cultural hub. Here gather the city's best street food spots: from Georgian dumplings to Korean tacos. Ideal for lunch or evening grazing.
Markets and Shops: Where to Buy Food
Dezertirka market - Tbilisi's main market. Open daily 6 AM to 6 PM. In spring you get the first cherries, young herbs, hundreds of cheese varieties (sulguni, imeruli), homemade wine in plastic bottles from grandmothers.
Cave (underground market) on Rustaveli - shop of Georgian wines and delicacies. Good place to buy wine to go. Staff will explain the difference between qvevri, rkatsiteli and saperavi.
Georgian Wine House on Aghmashenebeli - large shop with tastings. You can try before buying.
Gastro Route: One Day in Tbilisi
Morning (9 AM): Breakfast at Bread House - fresh shotis puri (Georgian bread baked in tone), imeruli khachapuri, coffee. Then - walk through Dezertirka.
Lunch (1 PM): Khinkali at Pasanauri in the Old Town. After lunch - walk through Metekhi, funicular up Mtatsminda.
Evening (7 PM): Aperitif with orange wine at Wine Not on Rustaveli, then dinner at Shavi Lomi. End the evening at jazz bar Fabrika or on a terrace with views of the Kura river.
Frequently asked questions
Is eating in Tbilisi expensive?
What is orange wine and where to try it?
Do you need a visa for Georgia?
When are cherries best in Tbilisi?
Is it true that Georgians eat so much it's unhealthy?
Itineraries for Tbilisi
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